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The optimal care of ball bearings

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The optimal care of ball bearings

Unfortunately, it happens from time to time that we drive our 1/5 or 1/6 car on a wet, or in case of an off-road car even on a muddy track. :-( Even though it makes fun! If only the parts wouldn’t have to suffer! Especially the ball bearings take offense. Therefore bearing maintenance is very important after such a ride. Once the bearings are removed from the car the following procedure is recommended:

1 Shield / seal removal ...


There are three common types of shields /seals
Version 1: metal lids with retainer ring.
Version 2: rubberized metal rings.
Version 3: press-fitted metal lids.


...or a combination of the three ...



Now you have to remove the shields. Depending on the version this should be done as follows:

Version 1:
Remove the retainer ring at the outer race of the bearing with a sharp needle, make sure to watch were the part flies, to be able to find it again ;-) The shield can then be easily removed with the needle.



Version 2:
Carefully pry the lid from the inner race side with a needle.

Version 3:
Pry only one lid with a small screwdriver and a dose of force. The lid should remain intact, so be cautious!

Now you can see the dirty inner workings of the open bearings.



2 Cleaning the bearing ...

Bearings are usually greased by default; the grease with dirt compound must be washed out completely. The following paragraph describes your next step when the bearings have been greased, not oiled!

Brake cleaner (No. y0042) is the solvent of choice for the job. Soak the bearings in a sealed glass container (i.e. an empty jam jar) that you shake every now and then and check periodically whether the grease is actually dissolved. Replacing the solvent from time to time is not a bad idea!

If the bearing is already seized, you may need a bigger hammer. Many times bearings are that dirty or even rusted, they do need some additional chemicals: WD-40 (No. y0749/01). Soak the bearing for some time in WD40 and move the races against each other by hand until they free up again. Now proceed as normal ...

If the bearings have been oiled and they are not yet seized (by dirt or rust), you can start right here: the oil and the dirt can be easily removed by short sets in hot water with detergent or neutral detergent and some shaking until the bearing turns without noticeable noises. Then the bearings are rinsed with clean water and dried as quickly as possible. This happens best in the oven on the lowest level or with a hair dryer.

In a perfect world you have now fresh and shiny looking bearings in front of you ...

3 Bearings re-lubrication ...

Now you have to grease or oil the bearings. The more the better is the wrong way! A few drops of Dry- Fluid Extreme (No. y0781) per bearing work wonders! Now you turn the bearings a little, until the dry fluid is evenly distributed.

About this "miracle cure" Dry-Fluid Extreme We did not think that today it’s still possible to make a real improvement in lubricants! Give it a try!

4 Re-seal the bearings and re-install them ...

Now the bearings must be re-sealed. Numbering as above:

Version 1: Put the lid back in place and fumble the snap ring with a needle into the groove in the outer race.

Version 2: Put the lid back in place and press it down slightly, it should snap automatically into the groove.

After the dry-fluid treatment you will ask more from your brake! ;-)

Find the best brakes: http://rc-car-online.de/shop/en/243-brake.html

We thank Mr. Michael Sautter, who provided most of this tutorial.

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